A big, chewy, muscular effort, the 2009 Crozes-Hermitage exhibits copious aromas of barbecue smoke, incense, melted licorice, black currant liqueur, white chocolate and espresso roast. This chewy, thick, juicy Crozes is ideal for drinking over the next decade or more. These three negociant bottlings from the talented Louis Barruol are all noteworthy. Barruol’s outstanding talents are obvious in his southern Rhone offerings as well as his estate wines from his Domaine Saint-Cosme, which is situated on the outskirts of the sleepy village of Gigondas. Importer: Vintage ‘59, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218