The 2005 Cortona Merlot Desiderio is a plump, juicy wine loaded with sweet dark fruit, plums, chocolate and toasted oak. This supple wine possesses excellent up-front weight, but the intensity trails off a little on the mid-palate. It, too, should drink well relatively early. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015. Avignonesi remains a solid producer in the Montepulciano and Cortona appelations, yet it is with their Vin Santos that the estate truly excels. These are some of the most unique and intense sweet wines being made anywhere, even if the 1996s don’t seem to possess the complexity of the very finest vintages. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

It’s less impressive than the 2004, but the 2005 Desiderio still offers attractive concentration and rich tones of cherry, blackberry, spice and tobacco. There’s a noticeable oak element here that comes off as toast and vanilla and the wine ends with chewy, sweet tannins.——M.L.(11/1/2009)—— 91