The 2006 Taurasi is a much more representative Aglianico than the Serpico. Here the aromas and flavors are deep, dark and brooding. The Serpico is a lyric tenor, the Taurasi a dramatic baritone. The differences in the registers are that striking. Wild cherries, smoke, underbrush, tar and leather are just some of the nuances that emerge from this big, massive wine. Today the tannins are a bit unwieldy, but this is Taurasi, and further time in bottle is a must. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026. Feudi di San Gregorio is coming back from a period in which it was essentially a victim of its own success. The winery’s early and numerous accolades plus fast, unbridled growth proved to be too much to handle. Today, under the leadership of proprietor Antonio Capaldo, Feudi seems to be much more grounded than in the past. Capaldo boasts an impressive resume, replete with world-class academic credentials and stints with Lazard in Paris and McKinsey in Italy. Despite his background, Capaldo remains humble, eager to learn and well aware of the family winery’s missteps in the past, all qualities which should serve him very well going forward. Noted agronomist Pierpaolo Sirch oversees the work in the vineyards and cellar now that Feudi is moving away from relying on consultants in favor of doing more in-house. The flashy, oak-laden style of previous vintages is gradually being phased out as Feudi relies more on the considerable pedigree of its vineyards. This will be a fascinating story to follow in the coming years. For now Feudi is still a work in progress, and in many cases, the entry-level wines provide more pleasure and varietal character than the higher-end bottlings. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

Dark and rich, with ripe black fruits up front, followed by hints of pine and wild herbs that turn a touch dry on the finish. Drink now through 2016. 4,000 cases made.??–NW??Region: Italy / South / Taurasi Select to Add

This is a gorgeous interpretation of Aglianico in which the tannic grape is softened and rounded out thanks to quality winemaking. Aromas of chocolate fudge, exotic spice, rum cake and loads of black fruit appear on the bouquet. You will, however, feel that characteristic tightness on the long, drying finish. ——M.L.(6/1/2011)—— 92