The 2012 St. Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien has an attractive, candied bouquet with attractive orange blossom and dried apricot aromas. The palate is well-balanced with pretty lime and apricot notes that fan out nicely to lend the finish both weight and tension. This should be lovely after bottling and that lemongrass tang comes as an added bonus. A hole had opened up in my itinerary when Philippe Colin had to cancel our rendezvous, (nothing personal – his 2012s had had to be racked and were not in representative condition.) What to do before my 5 p.m. meeting with Olivier Lamy? Walking back from Domaine Alain Chavy I popped my head round the door to see if Jean-Michel Charton was (a) there and (b)willing to show me his 2012s. As luck would have it, I was able to spend a profitable 90 minutes tasting through his whites. His wines have tended to be a little underrated out there in the market place. I have had more time for them than others and the 2012s attest to a producer that is improving with every passing vintage. Importer: Winebow, New York, NY; Tel: (212) 255-9414; Fax: (212) 633-2372. www.winebow.com