Much like a Pavlovian dog's, my mouth waters when I encounter bacon-laced aromas such as are found in the nose of the 2001 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes. A well-delineated wine, it has impressive breadth, purity, and depth. Minerals, stones, hints of pears, and spices can be detected in its light to medium-bodied character. Drink it over the next 5-6 years. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802 Note: Vincent Girardin also bottles some of these same wines under the Baron de la Charriere label, imported by Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565.