I adored the aromatics of the 2003 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes (white). Its scents of sappy minerals intermingled with flowers and chalk are intense, complex and beguiling. Rich, deep, and concentrated, this satin-textured, light to medium-bodied offering is packed with spicy minerals whose flavors linger through its extended finish. Anticipated maturity: now-2011. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802; Vincent Girardin also bottles some of these same wines under the Baron de la Charriere label, imported by Eric Solomon European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565