In contrast, the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (14.7% natural alcohol) is an equal part blend of Napa and Sonoma fruit. There is no doubting the Cabernet Sauvignon in this wine! Classic notes of cedarwood, underbrush, licorice, black currants and tobacco leaf are textbook definitions of this varietal. The color is even denser than the Reserve Claret's, and the bouquet offers additional notes of Chinese black tea. Elegant with great acid as well as stunning concentration, richness and a full-bodied mouthfeel, this is another world-class effort that pushes the envelope toward perfection. It is a remarkable success for the vintage, partly due to the fact that the extremes of weather experienced on the valley floor were less problematic for these high altitude sites. It should keep for another 6-10 years. Tel. (707) 963-4949

The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (a blend of equal parts Napa and Sonoma fruit) offers abundant quantities of creme de cassis notes, medium to full body, a big, beefy, smoky character intermixed with scorched earth, coffee, and blackberries, and a rich, dense, smooth style. Drink this superb Cabernet over the next 12-15 years. Previously recommended: 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (96+), 2002 Reserve Claret (97+).Tel. (707) 963-4949; Fax (707) 963-6039

What a wine. Take one of those hugely gooey, famous winemaker Napa Cabs, the kind that melt on your palate like butter on toast or chocolate in a microwave, and add fierce mountain tannins, and this is what you get. A humungous, dry, important Cab, one that desperately needs cellaring. Ten years should do it; 20 might be better. The spicy blackberry and cherry fruit isn’t going anywhere.——S.H.(3/1/2007)—— 94