Almost as impressive is the 2005 Cabernet Reserve, a blend of 95.5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4.5 % Petit Verdot, in this case sourced 58% from Sonoma County and 42% from Napa. Its 14.5% alcohol is slightly lower than its sibling’s. This full-bodied wine is very concentrated, with a saturated bluish/purple color and a classic nose of mocha and espresso intermixed with crème de cassis and charcoal. The finish is a good 40-45 seconds, and the wine has a remarkable vibrancy and freshness from the vintage’s acidity. This is terrific stuff to drink now and over the next 12-15 years.

The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot) is more backward, but promising. It exhibits an inky/blue/purple color as well as notes of lead pencil shavings, toasty oak, charcoal, sweet roasted herbs, and background wood. Rich, full-bodied, and moderately tannic, it will benefit from 1-3 years of bottle age, and should last for 15+.Pride Mountain Vineyards is going through a transitionary stage with the departure of their renowned winemaker, Bob Foley, and the hiring of his replacement, Sally Johnston, formerly at St. Francis. The first Pride vintage where she had complete control is 2008. This is an impressive 83-acre vineyard spread high on Spring Mountain, traversing both the Napa and Sonoma County lines. Tasting through Pride’s 2006s was somewhat mixed. With the exception of the top Reserves, the wines did not appear to be at the same quality level as the 2005s, 2003s, 2002s, or 2001s. Keep in mind that 2004 was a troublesome year for Pride Mountain, and it looks like 2006 is another less than brilliant year. Nevertheless, some very good 2006s were made, but when expectations are so high, it is sometimes difficult to sustain them.Tel. (707) 963-4949; Fax (707) 963-6039

This is the densest, most tannic of Pride’s new releases, obviously meant for the cellar. You could drink it now, because it’s so lush, but the tightness suggests that the winemaker doesn’t want you to. Buried under the astringency are masses of cassis, dark chocolate, sweet fresh herbs and smoky oak. Better after 2010.——S.H.(7/1/2009)—— 94