A classic Margaux, the 1998 Palmer has put on weight and fleshed out during its elevage in barrel. It displays a dense purple color as well as a sumptuous bouquet of black fruits, licorice, melted asphalt, pain grille, and a touch of acacia flowers. Full-bodied, with brilliant definition, this blend of equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, with a dollop of Petit Verdot, will age well for 20-30 years. It is one of the Medoc's, as well as the Margaux appellation's finest wines of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2028.

Mushroom, spice, earth and berry character on the nose. Medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and meaty, berry and cepe flavors. Tannins are still a little angular. Give it a little time.—'88/'98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Best after 2010. -JS