The 1999 Chardonnay Sbragia Limited Release reveals structure (due to the cool growing season). Dense and thick, with an unctuous texture as well as fine underlying acidity, smoky oak, rich, leesy, hazelnut married with copious quantities of tropical fruit, and a flamboyant personality, this sensational Chardonnay should drink well for 4-5 years. (Not yet released) Tel. (707) 963-7115; Fax (707) 963-1735

The third vintage of the Beringer senior winemaker’s namesake bottling is robust, yet approachable. This wine is lavishly—to some, overly oaked, but it’s one of the best of this style. Apple, cinnamon bun, and smoke aromas give way to caramel, vanilla and spice flavors. Add a rich, round mouthfeel, and you’ve got a very seductive package. This wine is more about vigorous style, flavor and texture than subtlety. Only die-hard anti-oaksters will be able to resist its appeal.——W.E.(7/1/2001)—— 91