More restrained than normal, the 2005 Chardonnay Sbragia Limited Release offers copious quantities of honeyed fruit, full body, a rich, heady mouthfeel, but not the unctuosity normally found in this cuvee. Additionally, the oak is more restrained. There is abundant richness, but the vintage’s acidity provides plenty of vibrancy and precision. It should drink nicely for 3-4 years. Previously recommended: 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Knight’s Valley (90), 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa (89), 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Bancroft Ranch (90), 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Chabot Vineyard (92), 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Marston Vineyard (90+), 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve (94), 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Quarry Vineyard (88?), 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Rancho del Oso (87), 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena Home Vineyard (93), 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Steinhauer Vineyard (90), 2004 Chardonnay Napa (87), 2004 Chardonnay Private Reserve (92), 2004 Chardonnay Sbragia Limited Release (93). Tel. (707) 963-7115; Fax (707) 963-1735

The only criticism I have is excessive new oak. In this case, it’s 100%, and the sweet char, smoky vanilla and bruleed butterscotch flavors completely dominate. Good as Beringer’s top Chards are, they’re not Montrachet, and the wine simply cannot shoulder that burden of wood. Having said that, it’s still an elegant wine, and oak devotees will love it.——S.H.(11/1/2007)—— 89