Another offering that is more restrained than it used to be is the 2006 Chardonnay Sbragia Limited Release. It reveals an opulent tropical fruit character, a full-bodied mouthfeel, and hints of hazelnut, brioche, and honeysuckle as well as abundant glycerin and length. Good acidity provides balance and overall zest. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Previously recommended: 2005 Chardonnay Sbragia Limited Release (93), 2005 Chardonnay Private Reserve (93), 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve (92). Tel. (707) 963-7115; Fax (707) 963-1735

Like the 2005 vintage, this bottling has 100% new French oak. But the wine feels more balanced and fatter than its predecessor, and over all more satisfying. The mineral-infused roasted pineapple, candied ginger and creme brulee flavors finish dry and crisp and elegant. Great job from Beringer’s winemaker emeritus, Ed Sbragia.——S.H.(10/1/2008)—— 93