Castellare produces two vino da tavolas . The 1993 Coniale, a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine aged in French oak, of which one-third is new, is a backward, youthful wine. It reveals a dense, dark ruby/purple color, as well as an extroverted, intensely spicy, oaky, blackcurrant-scented nose with smoky tobacco in the background. Rich, medium to full-bodied, and large-scaled, this is a moderately tannic, unevolved, youthful wine that requires an additional 3-4 years of cellaring. It should keep through the first decade of the next century. This estate, owned by Paolo Panerai, has made significant changes (cutting yields, eliminating fining, and curtailing the amount of filtration) since the 1993 vintage. The vineyards, which are managed with no pesticides, consist of 49 acres in Tuscany's heartland. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620