The 2008 Coniale (Cabernet Sauvignon) is interesting in that it is a noticeably softer, smoother wine than the Merlot, which I did not expect. Sweet spices, cinnamon, plums, licorice and new leather are all woven together in this sumptuous, opulent wine. Layers of fruit build effortlessly to the rich, powerful finish. The Coniale was aged in French oak barrels, one-third new. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2024. I have long been a fan of Castellare. These are among my staples in Chianti Classico. As excellent as the wines often are, my impression is that quality and consistency have both increased in a big way over the last few years. This year’s new releases include a special commemorative wine made to celebrate the estate’s 30th vintage. While I am not usually a big fan of these “cellar blends,” the Trenta Vendemmie is truly a special bottle well worth seeking out. Readers who want to learn more about Castellare and their flagship I Sodi di San Niccolo may want to check out my vertical on that wine, also published in this issue. Kudos to proprietors Paolo and Nicoletta Panerai, and their long-time winemaker Alessandro Cellai, on these spectacular wines. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620