The 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (almost totally from the Nun's Canyon Vineyard) is reasonably priced for a wine of such high quality. An opaque purple color is accompanied by a big, bold, spicy, oaky nose infused with licorice, coffee, and abundant quantities of blackberry and cassis fruit. Full-bodied, rich, and impressive, with sweet tannin as well as abundant wood, it will drink well for the next 15 years. Tel. (707) 833-4666; Fax (707) 833-6534

Taut but complex aromatics of black plum, chocolate, soy, and cedar open this very dark-hued contender. The oak here is lavish, and the wine appeals with its dark-cherry and toast flavors. Closes with a dry, evenly tannic finish. The insistent heavy toast makes it perhaps a bit of a one-noter, but it’s a good example of this popular style.——W.E.(11/1/2000)—— 90