Medium garnet in color, the 1996 Pinot Noir Pierre Leon opens with dried cranberries and dried red cherries with notions of pipe tobacco, wood smoke, graphite, yellow raisins and charcuterie. It's light-bodied with lovely savory/tertiary characteristics in the mouth—smoked meats, pencil shavings, savory mushroom, dried leaves and sweet red fruits. It's still holding its structure well, with firm, grainy tannins and a long savory finish.