The 2004 Pinot Noir “Pierre Leon” (aged for 12 months in 60% new French oak) is round and supple in the mouth although a bit lacking in depth. Over the past 15 years Willakenzie Estate (named for the soil type on which the winery sits) has been a consistently excellent source for Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and particularly, Pinot Noir. The quality has been solid and the prices have been fair.Tel. (503) 662-3280; www.willakenzie.com. Also tasted: 2006 Pinot Gris (88), 2006 Pinot Blanc (89)

This is, in some respects, the most approachable of WillaKenzie’s six estate Pinots, a selection of clones from various plots among the 68 acres. It is the earthiest, as far as the finish is concerned, but also brings smooth, pretty cherry and red fruit flavors right at the start. Elegant, young and lightly accented with cedar and anise, this can be enjoyed immediately or cellared for a few more years.——P.G.(11/15/2007)—— 89