Dark fruits intermingled with herbs make up the aromatic profile of the 2002 Pinot Noir Pierre Leon. This firm wine displays excellent depth of fruit to its blackberry, black currant, and dark cherry flavored personality. Medium to full-bodied and extracted, this muscular offering reveals some alcoholic warmth in its finish. Projected maturity: 2006-2012. Tel. (503) 662-3280 www.willakenzie.com

Though we found a hint of soapiness in the nose, the wine quickly showed prettier floral and citrus notes, then continued to reveal a concentrated, flavorful, distinctly floral center. The powerful citrus notes are unusual, but interesting.——W.E.(11/1/2004)—— 88