In reaction to Mount Etna’s volcanic eruptions, local farmers have adopted a unique mix of Christianity and mysticism to protect against imminent dangers. Many vineyard sites are anointed with religious names, like Santo Spirito, as if the name were a lucky charm in itself. This delightful vineyard-designate wine is ethereal and bright, with loads of small berry intensity and a dusty, dry finish. ——M.L.(4/1/2012)—— 92