Tasting early-ripening Merlot from the scorching hot 2003 caused me to raise my eyebrows at first. But the 2003 Poggio Ai Merli far exceeded my expectations. The bouquet opens to meaty tones with dark fruit and blackberry preserves on obvious display. There are distant touches of cured meat and spice as well. But you also get some of the nerve and freshness from the wine's natural acidity.