The 2008 Poggio ai Merli (Merlot) comes across as deep, powerful and inward. It shows surprising depth and richness for the vintage, but like a lot of 2008s, it is very, very tight. The 2008 needs at least a few more years in the cellar. I will not at all be shocked if the Poggio ai Merli ends up better than this note suggests. Sweet herbs, flowers and French oak with a distinctly Tuscan accent linger on the explosive finish. The Poggio ai Merli was aged in French oak barrels, one-third new. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028. I have long been a fan of Castellare. These are among my staples in Chianti Classico. As excellent as the wines often are, my impression is that quality and consistency have both increased in a big way over the last few years. This year’s new releases include a special commemorative wine made to celebrate the estate’s 30th vintage. While I am not usually a big fan of these “cellar blends,” the Trenta Vendemmie is truly a special bottle well worth seeking out. Readers who want to learn more about Castellare and their flagship I Sodi di San Niccolo may want to check out my vertical on that wine, also published in this issue. Kudos to proprietors Paolo and Nicoletta Panerai, and their long-time winemaker Alessandro Cellai, on these spectacular wines. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620