The Poggio Ai Merli is Castellare’s single-vineyard Merlot. For whatever reason, it is not a wine I taste all that often, but I should, as the 2007 is a stunner. Dark cherries, scorched earth, smoke, licorice and leather are some of the aromas and flavors that burst from the glass in this huge, explosive wine. This is far from an easygoing, open 2007. Rather it is a wine that reconciles the opulence of the year with tons of underlying structure to the extent rarely seen in this vintage. The French oak (33% new) adds volume and depth, but without marking the wine at all. The 2007 Poggio ai Merli will be a jewel of a wine once the tannins start melting away. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. Castellare is one of those properties that never seems to get the attention it deserves, despite boasting a track record of superb quality that goes back several decades. That works to the consumer’s advantage, as prices have remained quite reasonable, especially for the flagship I Sodi di San Niccolo. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620