The 2009 Etna Rosso is a pretty if somewhat fragile wine laced with dried herbs, crushed flowers, tobacco and sweet red berries. The aromas and flavors are already a touch forward, suggesting the Rosso is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2018. Hard as it is to believe, proprietor Marc de Grazia continues to ratchet up the quality at Tenuta delle Terre Nere, his property on Mount Etna. Simply put, these are the most brilliant wines I have ever tasted from de Grazia. The 2008 reds will require patience, however. With one exception, the Don Peppino, the reds are 98% Nerello Mascalese and 2% Nerello Cappuccio and are aged in cask. My only regret is that I was not able to taste the Vigne Niche, the estate's top white.