Mme. Bize-Leroy's 1997 Criots-Batard-Montrachet, produced from a parcel on the vineyard's eastern extremity, has baked pear and apple aromas intermingled with spices. This is a profound, well-focused, and deeply ripe wine with flavors of marzipan, minerals, peanuts, and white flowers. It is medium-to-full-bodied, forward, super-expressive, yet possibly revealing faint traces of oxidation. Nonetheless, it is so extraordinarily flavorful and muscular that I highly recommend it. Try it in 2002 to see how it is evolving. Importers: Martine's Wines, Inc., San Rafael, CA; tel (415) 485-1800.