D’Auvenay’s 2010 Criots-Batard-Montrachet is quite unusual in this vintage. Because yields were so low, the wine was aged in a stainless steel drum rather than oak. The personality of Criots comes through, but as good as the wine is, the support of the oak is missing. The 2010 is fresh, floral and vibrant throughout. It is a wine of great delicacy, but frankly I am not sure how it will develop. Anticipated maturity: 2016+. Do you want the good news or the bad news? Lalou Bize-Leroy’s 2010s at Domaine D’Auvenay – both white and red – are off the charts. That is the good news. The bad news is that the wines won’t be released for at least a few more years. Aging white Burgundy these days requires a strong stomach but D’Auvenay is one of the few domaines where the wines actually need a few years in bottle to show well. With time, the D’Auvenay whites often blossom into extraordinary wines with few peers anywhere in the world. I also include notes on the 2010 reds, which are equally, if not more, impressive than the whites. I find the D’Auvenay 2010 reds just a bit more refined than Bize-Leroy’s 2010 reds at Domaine Leroy. In any event, these remain some of the most riveting wines on the planet. The only problem is finding them. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-040