The 2007 Criots-Batard-Montrachet flows across the palate with endless layers of fruit. Sweet pears, ripe peaches and white flowers are some of the nuances that come to life in this expansive, caressing Burgundy. The finish is all silk and cashmere. I am running out of superlatives, so let me make it simple. This is profound juice. Anticipated maturity: 2015+. My tasting with Lalou Bize and Estate Manager Frederic Roemer encompassed a wide range of wines, culminating with a breathtaking 2008 Chevalier-Montrachet. The D’Auvenay wines are singular expressions of site and vintage as interpreted by one of the world’s greatest vigneronnes and winemakers. At times words seem superfluous when confronted with these magical elixirs. The 2008s are quite marked by a vintage that produced very low yields, even by this house’s standards. The wines are intensely colored and truly massive. The 2007s, on the other hand, show much more in the way of aromatics and site specific character. In 2007 the vintage plays a supporting rather than leading role. I also tasted a number of 2009s, but Lalou Bize was right in her hesitation to show me the complete lineup, as the 2009s I tasted were still recovering from their bottling. I will report on those wines as soon as I have an opportunity to taste them in better conditions. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-040