The 2006 Guardiola possesses an additional level of richness in its dark cherries, roasted coffee beans, sweet spices and minerals. The wine continues to grow in the glass, showing impressive depth and persistence. Sweet notes of menthol linger on the long finish. This is a gorgeous effort from Terre Nere. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. This lineup from Tenuta delle Terre Nere is one of the most impressive I tasted. Brothers Marc and Iano De Grazia seem to be hitting their stride with these new releases. The wines show great balance and tons of expressiveness, something that is enhanced by an enlightened use of French oak. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Dried fruit, chopped herbs, dusty mineral, sweet apple and cinnamon spice characterize this fragrant wine from Mount Etna. It’s less intense in the mouth but would make a good pairing to wild mushrooms or beef carpaccio.——M.L.(3/1/2009)—— 90