The 2009 Etna Rosso Guardiola is drop-dead gorgeous, even if it doesn’t offer up all of its charms immediately. A wine of seduction and introspection, the 2009 is all about subtlety and nuance. Crushed flowers, cherries, licorice and spices all meld together in the glass. The 2009 doesn’t have the aromatic lift or brightness of the 2010, but it does have more mid-palate resonance and fabulous balance. Although delicious today, the 2009 will drink well for at least another decade. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. The Etna boasts two reference point producers and a number of emerging growers. Along with Andrea Franchetti, proprietor Marco de Grazia continues to make compelling wines that set the standard for the Etna. De Grazia’s 2010s are a bit more ethereal than the 2009s, which have a little more mid-palate depth, but also a bit less finesse in my view. Both vintages have their strengths. I followed these wines over the greater part of a day and can report they perform best with 4-6 hours of aeration. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887