The estate's 2008 Etna Rosso Prephylloxera Vigna di Don Peppino is stunning. Layers of seamless dark fruit emerge from this dazzling, pure red. The Don Peppino reveals impeccable balance of fruit and structure. Here, too, the tannins are present but balanced beautifully by the sheer pedigree and explosiveness of the fruit. In 2008 the Don Peppino is made from old vines in Calderara and Santo Spirito that date back to 1870. It is the only red that is made from 100% Nerello Mascalese and that is aged in French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. Hard as it is to believe, proprietor Marc de Grazia continues to ratchet up the quality at Tenuta delle Terre Nere, his property on Mount Etna. Simply put, these are the most brilliant wines I have ever tasted from de Grazia. The 2008 reds will require patience, however. With one exception, the Don Peppino, the reds are 98% Nerello Mascalese and 2% Nerello Cappuccio and are aged in cask. My only regret is that I was not able to taste the Vigne Niche, the estate's top white. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119