The highlight in this range of 2010s is the Etna Rosso Prephylloxera La Vigna di Don Peppino, easily the most refined of these offerings from Terre Nere. A gorgeous, vibrant core of fruit caresses the palate in this expressive and totally delicious wine. The 2010 isn’t as big or rich as some previous versions, instead it is a wine that impresses for its considerable length and pure finesse on the palate. Tobacco and spice notes add complexity to the finish in a Nerello Mascalese that bears more than a passing resemblance to the Volnays of the Cote de Beaune. D’Angerville comes to mind. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. The Etna boasts two reference point producers and a number of emerging growers. Along with Andrea Franchetti, proprietor Marco de Grazia continues to make compelling wines that set the standard for the Etna. De Grazia’s 2010s are a bit more ethereal than the 2009s, which have a little more mid-palate depth, but also a bit less finesse in my view. Both vintages have their strengths. I followed these wines over the greater part of a day and can report they perform best with 4-6 hours of aeration. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887