The 2004 Fontalloro (100% Sangiovese) comes across as fresher and brighter than the Rancia. Light on its feet, this graceful, delicate wine opens with sweet, perfumed aromatics that meld into raspberries, flowers, spices and a touch of sweet oak that lingers on the finish. It offers remarkable clarity and precision in a pure, focused style, with superb balance and finessed tannins. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2019. There is not too much more I can say about the wines of Felsina and proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin, except that they are reference point wines for anyone who wants to discover the essence of contemporary Sangiovese from Chianti Classico. This is a compelling set of new releases from Mazzocolin and long-time consulting oenologist Franco Bernabei, one of the giants of modern Tuscan oenology. Even better, the wines remain very fairly priced. I was amused when another producer complained to me recently about Felsina’s prices. They were far too low, he insisted. I also tasted the wines of Felsina’s second property Castello di Farnatella. The wines are competently made, but lack the distinctiveness of the Felsina wines. Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

Vanilla and cherry, cream, complex. Youthful, ripe cherry fruit. Fresh acidity balances well. Long, intense, expressive.

Fontalloro is a classic super Tuscan. The wine is ripe with gorgeous mineral tones, oak shavings, root beer and forest berry. It’s a clear, pristine wine with a delicate embroidery of fruity flavors on the finish that would pair beautifully with classic Italian recipes.——M.L.(4/1/2008)—— 92