The 2005 Fontalloro is the product of a much less fortuitous vintage characterized by capricious weather. The floral red fruit verges on over ripeness and early hints of worn-in leather, spices and beef bouillon suggest this wine is on a relatively fast track. The 2005 lacks the sheer vibrancy and balance of the superb 2006. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. If you were to cut proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin’s veins the man would bleed Sangiovese, such is his passion for Tuscany’s most important native grape. Mazzocolin has a terrific set of new releases on his hands. The 2006s are glorious and benefit from a warm growing season that also saw good alternation of day and evening temperatures before the grapes got a final kick of heat that informs the wines. In 2007, I have only tasted the Chianti Classico so far, but if that wine is indicative, Felsina could have another superb vintage in store for fans of this venerable property. So far 2007 looks to be a vintage of ripe wines made in a more generous, if early maturing style, than the firmer 2006s. Not only are Felsina’s wines magnificent, they also remain exceedingly fairly priced in relative terms. Mazzocolin deserves much credit and support from readers for his consumer-friendly approach, especially in these challenging times. Various American importers, including: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; Wine Warehouse, City of Commerce, CA; tel. (323) 724-1700; Maverick Wine Company, Binseville, IL; tel. (630) 860-4600; Prestige Wine Cellar, Dallas, TX; tel. (214) 823-9272; DeLuca Liquor & Wine Nevada Wine Agents, North Las Vegas, NV; tel. (702) 669-3916; Baroness Wine Distributors, Denver, CO; tel. (303)934-1300; Transatlantic/Southern Wine & Spirits, Miramar, FL; tel. (305) 625-4171; Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; tel. (410) 633-0400