The 2006 Fontalloro is much more sweet and open than the firmer Rancia. Enticing, expressive aromatics lead to an expansive core of fruit. Round, finessed tannins give the wine an additional level of polish. Today the Fontalloro is fleshier and more ready than the Rancia. There is superb purity to the fruit and wonderful overall balance. Tar, smoke, licorice, and grilled herbs come to life on the finish. Fontalloro is made from vineyards in both the Chianti Classico and Chianti Colli Senesi appellations. Simply put, this is a great, majestic Fontalloro. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. If you were to cut proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin’s veins the man would bleed Sangiovese, such is his passion for Tuscany’s most important native grape. Mazzocolin has a terrific set of new releases on his hands. The 2006s are glorious and benefit from a warm growing season that also saw good alternation of day and evening temperatures before the grapes got a final kick of heat that informs the wines. In 2007, I have only tasted the Chianti Classico so far, but if that wine is indicative, Felsina could have another superb vintage in store for fans of this venerable property. So far 2007 looks to be a vintage of ripe wines made in a more generous, if early maturing style, than the firmer 2006s. Not only are Felsina’s wines magnificent, they also remain exceedingly fairly priced in relative terms. Mazzocolin deserves much credit and support from readers for his consumer-friendly approach, especially in these challenging times. Various American importers, including: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; Wine Warehouse, City of Commerce, CA; tel. (323) 724-1700; Maverick Wine Company, Binseville, IL; tel. (630) 860-4600; Prestige Wine Cellar, Dallas, TX; tel. (214) 823-9272; DeLuca Liquor & Wine Nevada Wine Agents, North Las Vegas, NV; tel. (702) 669-3916; Baroness Wine Distributors, Denver, CO; tel. (303)934-1300; Transatlantic/Southern Wine & Spirits, Miramar, FL; tel. (305) 625-4171; Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; tel. (410) 633-0400

Chocolate, blackberry and black cherry aromas lead to a full-bodied palate, with velvety tannins and a deep concentration of fruit. Powerfully rich and polished. Big and structured. A blockbuster Sangiovese. Best after 2012. 3,300 cases made. -JS