The 2008 Fontalloro is the yin to the Rancia’s yang. It is also characteristically beautiful, open and expressive at this stage. Layers of sweet red fruit, flowers and spices blossom effortlessly from the 2008 Fontalloro. The intensely saline finish that is present in the Rancia is found in Fontalloro as well. I am usually not the biggest fan of Fontalloro, but there is no denying the superb pedigree and sheer class of the 2008. This is a wonderfully, sophisticated, polished wine from Felsina. In 2008 the slightly drier microclimate at Fontalloro vis-a-vis Rancia is the main reason this wine is such a huge success in 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2026. Felsina is the house Giuseppe Mazzocolin built, to borrow a phrase from Babe Ruth and the original Yankee Stadium. Last year Mazzocolin decided to step back from his insane day to day schedule running the winery. While Mazzocolin remains intimately involved in the winery, the future leadership of Felsina is in the hands of Giovanni Poggiali, the oldest son of proprietor Giuseppe Poggiali. Various American importers, including: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; Wine Warehouse, City of Commerce, CA; tel. (323) 724-1700; Maverick Wine Company, Binseville, IL; tel. (630) 860-4600; Prestige Wine Cellar, Dallas, TX; tel. (214) 823-9272; DeLuca Liquor & Wine Nevada Wine Agents, North Las Vegas, NV; tel. (702) 669-3916; Baroness Wine Distributors, Denver, CO; tel. (303)934-1300; Transatlantic/Southern Wine & Spirits, Miramar, FL; tel. (305) 625-4171; Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; tel. (410) 633-0400

A solid red with plums and chocolate and hints of coffee bean. Full and velvety, with a lovely balance and an intense finish. A little reserved now but beautiful. Best in 2012.

Though bright and elegant, sporting cherry and raspberry flavors, this red is lean and dominated by tea and tobacco notes on the firm finish. Sangiovese. 2,750 cases made. -BS